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701-0478-00L 3 Credits BSC , MSC D-USYS , D-MAVT , D-PHYS , D-ERDW , D-ITET
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Introduction to Physical Oceanography

Lecturers & Examiners: Dr. Gian-Kasper Plattner, Dr. Matthias Münnich, Dr. Núria Casacuberta Arola
VVZ CR n/a

Last Updated: 2026-06-01 11:33:27

Abstract

The lecture gives an overview over physical properties, flows and transport phenomena in stratified water bodies (reservoirs, lakes and the oceans). The focus is on oceans, their currents and the role of the seas in the global climate system. Students completing the course are able to interpret basic flow equations and apply them to phenomema.

Objective

Students are able to - apply the basic conservation principles of physics to various bodies of water. - explain the singularities of various natural flow systems. - apply closed solutions and simple evaluation procedures to characterise flow and transport. - present an overview of the mechanical flow properties of environmental flow systems. - describe the role of the oceans in the global climate system.

Content

- Review of governing equations (Navier-Stokes equation, Coriolis force, scaling) - Stratification and mixing (molecular diffusion, Reynolds decomposition, turbulent transport, turbulent closure, boundary layers) - Density-driven ocean currents (thermocline theory, deep water formation) - Wind-driven ocean currents (Ekman transport, Sverdrub ballance, westerly boundary currents) - Waves in Fluids (surface waves, internal waves, Rossby waves) - Oceans and climate (El Nino, Ice Ages)

Resources

Lecture Notes

In lieu of a script the course is accompanied by a Wiki about the topics of the lecture.

Literature

- Descriptive Physical Oceanography: An Introduction (L. Talley, G. Pickard) - Atmosphere, Ocean and Climate Dynamics (J. Marshall, A. Plumb) - Ocean Circulation (Open University) - Waves, Tides & Shallow-Water Processes (Open University)

Learning Materials (Links)

General Information

Language
English
Levels
BSC , MSC
Frequency
Yearly recurring

Examination

Type
graded semester performance
The performance assessment is akin to an end of semester exam except for an increased grade bonus (0.5 instead of 0.25) for semester work:- A voluntary written mid-term during the tutorial on Apr 16.- A mandatory written final exam during the last lecture on May 28.- A bonus of 0.1 for each of the 5 problem sets.The grades of the mid-term and final exam are weighted 30% and 70%, respectively, towards the overall exam grade. If the mid-term exam grade would lower the overall exam grade, it is discarded and only the final exam grade plus any grade bonus will determine the course grade.

Course Components

Type Title Time & Place Hours
lecture Introduction to Physical Oceanography
  • Wed 08:15-10:00 (CHN E 42)
2 h weekly
exercise Introduction to Physical Oceanography
  • Wed 13:15-14:00 (CHN E 42)
1 h weekly

Offered In