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701-0478-00L 3 Credits BSC , GS D-USYS , D-ERDW

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Introduction to Physical Oceanography

Lecturers & Examiners: Dr. Gian-Kasper Plattner, Dr. Matthias Münnich, Thomas Frölicher

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Last Updated: 2026-02-05 16:23:06

Abstract

The lecture gives an overview over physical properties, flows and transport phenomena in stratified water bodies (reservoirs, lakes and the oceans). The focus is on oceans, their currents and the role of the seas in the global climate system. Students completing the course are able to interpret basic flow equations and apply them to phenomema.

Objective

Students are able to - apply the basic conservation principles of physics to various bodies of water. - explain the singularities of various natural flow systems. - apply closed solutions and simple evaluation procedures to characterise flow and transport. - present an overview of the mechanical flow properties of environmental flow systems. - describe the role of the oceans in the global climate system.

Content

- Review of governing equations (Navier-Stokes equation, Coriolis force, scaling) - Stratification and mixing (molecular diffusion, Reynolds decomposition, turbulent transport, turbulent closure, boundary layers) - Density-driven ocean currents (thermocline theory, deep water formation) - Wind-driven ocean currents (Ekman transport, Sverdrub ballance, westerly boundary currents) - Waves in Fluids (surface waves, internal waves, Rossby waves) - Oceans and climate (El Nino, Ice Ages)

Resources

Lecture Notes

In lieu of a script excerpts the course is accompanied by a Wiki about the topics of the lecture.

Literature

- Descriptive Physical Oceanography: An Introduction (L. Talley, G. Pickard) - Atmosphere, Ocean and Climate Dynamics (J. Marshall, A. Plumb) - Ocean Circulation (Open University) - Waves, Tides & Shallow-Water Processes (Open University)

Learning Materials (Links)

Learning environment
Course Wiki
Literature
Descriptive Physical Oceanography: An Introduction (L. Talley, G. Pickard)

General Information

Language: English
Levels: BSC , GS
Frequency: Yearly recurring

Examination

Type: graded semester performance

Course Components

Type	Title	Time & Place	Hours
lecture	Introduction to Physical Oceanography	Wed 08:15-10:00 (CHN E 42)	2 h weekly
exercise	Introduction to Physical Oceanography	Wed 13:15-14:00 (CHN E 42)	1 h weekly

Offered In

Earth and Climate Sciences Bachelor
- Majors
  - Major: Climate and Water
    - Electives (The electives listed are recommended. Additional courses can be chosen from the complete offerings of the ETH Zurich and University of Zurich.)
Environmental Sciences Bachelor
- Specialization in an Environmental System
  - Biogeochemistry (The following courses are highly recommended as preparation for the Specialization in Biogeochemistry: 701-0225-00L Organic Chemistry (Autumn semester) 752-0100-00L Biochemie (Autumn semester) 752-1300-00L Introduction to Toxicology (Spring semester) These courses should be successfully completed during the second year.)